Civil Service in the news
Sustainability: On the menu
29/10/2007 - Department for Environment and Rural Affairs [External website] 
While shoppers are making more informed decisions about what goes into their baskets - thanks to an increasing variety of locally produced, organic and fair-trade products - finding somewhere to eat out ethically can prove more of a challenge.
To help cater for diners who want to know whether their side serving of vegetables comes from Cornwall or China, a new initiative is raising the profile of farmers, food suppliers, caterers and restaurants who are opting for a more sustainable approach.
London Food Link and its members run projects that help to increase the availability of sustainable food in the city. Part-funded by Defra, through the Environmental Action Fund, the initiative is part of Sustain, the alliance for better food and farming.
A Sustain report published in May, called One Planet Dining: London's growing market for eating out sustainably, found many restaurant owners don't have the skills or experience to communicate their 'green' principles to customers.
As Ben Reynolds, the link's project officer, says: “We rarely came across examples of restaurants or suppliers that had been offered professional support to promote sustainability.”
The organisation has also launched the 'Ethical Eats' initiative, to bring together restaurants and producers. The group meets several times a year to help restaurant owners promote their sustainable credentials and to hold food supplier tasting sessions.
Ethical Eats member, Allegra McEvedy, coowner and chef of the Leon chain of healthy fast food restaurants, says: “It's amazing how little support there has been until now for chefs and restaurateurs who care about the environment. Having this as a resource to draw upon is an all-round good thing for any caterers with a conscience.”
Sustain also worked with chef Oliver Rowe on the BBC Two programme The Urban Chef. Last year he opened a restaurant in Kings Cross - Konstam at the Prince Albert - and uses only ingredients sourced in and around London. The programme followed his search for ingredients. Now, says Oliver: “It's clear we are getting the message across that local produce is delicious and ethical.”
London Food Link is exploring the formation of an 'ethical restaurants' association' in addition to the Ethical Eats network. Ben says: “It would extend the scope of the network and would provide a central forum for members to share initiatives and information. It would engage members in environmental issues and the overall aim would be to increase the market for sustainable food.”
The restaurants:
The Ethical Eats network is open to restaurants in and around London, and members include:
The Moshi Moshi sushi chain
The Moshi Moshi sushi chain gave the main presentation at the first meeting of Ethical Eats. Managing director Caroline Bennett says: “I realised that I had a responsibility to put fish sustainability at the heart of the business. I believe that if we don't act now to save fish stocks, we are staring into the abyss.”
The chain has taken endangered bluefin tuna off the menu and has fostered direct relationships with individual fishermen.
The Duke of Cambridge
Found at 30 St Peter's Street, N1, the Duke is the world's first certified organic gastropub. Founder, owner and managing director, Geetie Singh, opened the pub in 1998 and last year it was voted the second best bar in the UK in The Observer's Food Magazine Awards.
“We are a pioneer in ethical eating,” says Geetie. “We monitor our environmental impact from every possible angle.” That includes procuring whole animals to prevent waste, acquiring British seasonal/ local produce, and never using airfreight.
“Food gives so much pleasure and yet can cause so much damage,” says Geetie. “But a few simple changes to the way we produce, eat and shop for food can turn that detrimental environmental impact into a positive one. I would urge people to stop talking about it and get on with it!”
Due South
Since the restaurant at 139 Kings Road Arches, Brighton, opened in 2003, it has supported local producers and suppliers, sourcing at least 85 per cent of its food from within a 35 mile radius of Brighton.
Says owner Helen Smith: “We use only seafood that has been fished using sustainable resources. All the meat is organic or free range. Tea, coffee and chocolate are fairly traded and all wines are English and European in order to minimise the distance the bottle travels before it reaches the table.”
This year, Due South launched a sister restaurant, Riddle & Finns Champagne and Oyster Bar in Brighton, which specialises in fresh seafood that is largely locally sourced.